In Spring after the snow melts you will see a lot of dead grass and all kind of dirt over your lawn. All that can be removed by Lawn Dethatching process.
Like many plants, grass has a below-ground root system topped by a living, above-ground shoot that’s green and growing. In between lies a layer known as thatch. Some thatch is natural and good for a lawn, but too much can lead to problems.
Do not work on a wet lawn. Wait for the lawn surface to get dry.
If any rocks, branches or dirt are present when the snow melts, use a rake and clear all of them BEFORE starting the Lawn Dethatching process.
Personally I like to use a workshop vacuum to remove all the small rocks (anti-skid material).
To avoid extensive damage use a dethatcher with medium strength tines.
A Dethatcher helps you create a beautiful lawn, ensure your soil receives nutrients, oxygen and water, and remove unwanted weeds and thatch.
ADVANCE FORWARD WITH A MEDIUM SPEED TO AVOID EXCESSIVE DAMAGE TO LAWN.
After dethatching you can use your LAWN MOWER WITH THE REAR BAG ATTACHED to collect all the thatch.
What Causes Thatch?
Thatch forms as a turf’s natural growing process. It lies on top of the soil beneath the visible grass blades. As long as it doesn’t get thicker than 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch, thatch can contribute to lawn health:
• Slowing water loss and mulching soil
• Decreasing compaction
• Improving turf tolerance to foot and mower traffic
The issue appear when thatch develops into a thicker layer forming a barrier between grass and soil diminishing lawn health:
• Forms a layer that prevents water, fertilizer, and insect or disease controls from reaching .
• Keeps excessive moisture which can foster disease.
• Creates an uneven lawn, which leads to uneven mowing and scalping.
Although thatch forms naturally, some situations promote rapid thatch formation:
• Too much nitrogen when fertilizing
• Excessive watering
• Mowing too high for prolonged periods of time
• Heavy clay soil
Certain grasses tend to form thicker thatch layers, such as: St. Augustinegrass, Bermudagrass and zoysiagrass. Cool-season grasses, such as: bentgrass and aggressive Kentucky bluegrass varieties.
Also thatch can quickly form when soil is compacted and turf hasn’t been properly fertilized for a few years.
If you use a mulching mower and leave grass clippings on the lawn, that does not lead to thatch formation. Typically grass clippings decompose readily.
Thatch arises from grass stems and roots in the top inches of soil that die and don’t fully decompose.
Perform one of these tests to find if you have to perform a Lawn Dethatching.
Feel the lawn. A lawn that’s spongy or bouncy underfoot, with a springy feel, often has a thick thatch layer.
Visually inspect the lawn. To determine how thick thatch is, examine the lawn closely. Is soil visible between turf crowns? If it isn’t, you’re likely looking at a thatch layer. Can you shove your finger through the visible thatch layer – or is it impenetrable? A thatch layer that’s tough to wedge a finger through needs to be thinned.
Measure the thatch. Another way to examine thatch is to excavate a lawn sample. Use a trowel or spade to remove a wedge-shaped layer of grass and soil about 3 inches thick, or just pry up a small section of turf. Look for the thatch layer lying directly on top of soil. Measure the thickness. A layer thicker than three-quarters of an inch signals it’s time to dethatch.
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