In Spring after the snow melts you will see a lot of dead grass and all kind of dirt over your lawn. All that can be removed by Lawn Dethatching process.

Like many plants, grass has a below-ground root system topped by a living, above-ground shoot that’s green and growing. In between lies a layer known as thatch. Some thatch is natural and good for a lawn, but too much can lead to problems.

Do not work on a wet lawn. Wait for the lawn surface to get dry.
If any rocks, branches or dirt are present when the snow melts, use a rake and clear all of them BEFORE starting the Lawn Dethatching process.
Personally I like to use a workshop vacuum to remove all the small rocks (anti-skid material).

To avoid extensive damage use a dethatcher with medium strength tines.

A Dethatcher helps you create a beautiful lawn, ensure your soil receives nutrients, oxygen and water, and remove unwanted weeds and thatch.

ADVANCE FORWARD WITH A MEDIUM SPEED TO AVOID EXCESSIVE DAMAGE TO LAWN.

After dethatching you can use your LAWN MOWER WITH THE REAR BAG ATTACHED to collect all the thatch.

What Causes Thatch?

Thatch forms as a turf’s natural growing process. It lies on top of the soil beneath the visible grass blades. As long as it doesn’t get thicker than 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch, thatch can contribute to lawn health:
• Slowing water loss and mulching soil
• Decreasing compaction
• Improving turf tolerance to foot and mower traffic

The issue appear when thatch develops into a thicker layer forming a barrier between grass and soil diminishing lawn health:
• Forms a layer that prevents water, fertilizer, and insect or disease controls from reaching .
• Keeps excessive moisture which can foster disease.
• Creates an uneven lawn, which leads to uneven mowing and scalping.

Although thatch forms naturally, some situations promote rapid thatch formation:
• Too much nitrogen when fertilizing
• Excessive watering
• Mowing too high for prolonged periods of time
• Heavy clay soil

Certain grasses tend to form thicker thatch layers, such as: St. Augustinegrass, Bermudagrass and zoysiagrass. Cool-season grasses, such as: bentgrass and aggressive Kentucky bluegrass varieties.
Also thatch can quickly form when soil is compacted and turf hasn’t been properly fertilized for a few years.
If you use a mulching mower and leave grass clippings on the lawn, that does not lead to thatch formation. Typically grass clippings decompose readily.
Thatch arises from grass stems and roots in the top inches of soil that die and don’t fully decompose.

Perform one of these tests to find if you have to perform a Lawn Dethatching.

Feel the lawn. A lawn that’s spongy or bouncy underfoot, with a springy feel, often has a thick thatch layer.

Visually inspect the lawn. To determine how thick thatch is, examine the lawn closely. Is soil visible between turf crowns? If it isn’t, you’re likely looking at a thatch layer. Can you shove your finger through the visible thatch layer – or is it impenetrable? A thatch layer that’s tough to wedge a finger through needs to be thinned.

Measure the thatch. Another way to examine thatch is to excavate a lawn sample. Use a trowel or spade to remove a wedge-shaped layer of grass and soil about 3 inches thick, or just pry up a small section of turf. Look for the thatch layer lying directly on top of soil. Measure the thickness. A layer thicker than three-quarters of an inch signals it’s time to dethatch.

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Lawn core aeration is an important step for your grass health. Furthermore often described as one of the most important step for a healthy, thick and robust lawn. Lawn core aeration is the process of removing small cores of soil from the lawn using a machine. The aeration machine is designed to remove small cores from the soil, approximately 3 inch in depth and 3/4 inch in diameter.

If you do not own an aeration machine, you can rent one from your local hardware store OR hire a company to perform the process for you.

The lawn core aeration process leaves plugs of soil and thatch on the surface of the lawn witch will decompose and incorporate back into it, depending on the time of year and weather conditions, the tiny holes will fill in within a few weeks.

Lawn Core Aeration provides a number of benefits to your lawn:

• Reduces soil compaction.
• Will lead to growth of deep healthy roots.
• Removes the excessive thatch layers.
• Minimize weed infestations.
• Reduces insect and disease.
• Increases the assimilation of fertilizers and other control products.
• Stimulates turf growth and health.

The ideal time to have your lawn core aerated is during Spring and Fall, when the lawn is actively growing.

Aerating your lawn core once each 2 – 3 years will be sufficient for good healthy turf. Heavily compacted soils may require additional more frequent aeration.
The lawns with excessive layers of thatch buildup will require Lawn Dethatching.
>>>> Click HERE to find all steps related to this operation.

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Lawn fertilizing it is an important step for your grass health. Furthermore the lawn growth depends on nutrients or essential elements absorbed by roots from the soil. When natural soil processes do not provide adequate supplies, fertilizer can be applied to maintain optimum turf-grass growth.

BE AWARE TO USE FERTILIZER WITCH COMPLY WITH YOUR LOCAL ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION LAWS

When you buy fertilizer, you’ll see three numbers on the label. These numbers show the percentage of nitrogen, phosphate, potassium (from left to right), which are the primary nutrients needed to feed your lawn.
The percentage you will use is closed related with your soil chemistry.

If you have a chance go and perform a soil analysis.

On my lawn I am using Scotts® Turf Builder® Lawn Food 30-0-3 with 2% Iron OR Scotts® Turf Builder® Green MaxTM Lawn Food 27-0-2 with 5% Iron.

When to apply

For best results apply the fertilizer four times on year (time line related to Montreal, Quebec, Canada):
• Spring (Middle May)
• Early summer (Beginning July)
• Late summer (Middle August)
• Fall (Beginning October)

How to apply

Best if you will use a Broadcast / Rotary Spreader with edge guard for fast and accurate coverage.
I have a Scott Mini Broadcast Spreader with Edgeguard Technology.

Setup the spread amount in concordance with the fertilizer specifications.
For accurate application walk at constant speed (not too fast and not too slow) slightly overlapping each pass. Line up each pass approximately 1.5 m (5 feet) from wheel track.

DO NOT APPLY WHEN EXCESSIVE WET CONDITIONS CAN OCCUR (before rain or right after) to assure a slower distribution in the soil.

Now just fill your spreader with fertilizer and cover all your lawn surface.

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Lawn mowing is also a very important process for your grass health.

SET YOUR MOWER HEIGHT CUTTING ACCORDING WITH YOUR TYPE OF GRASS (I am referring here to a grass with normal cutting height of 2.5 – 3 inches).
The first few Lawn mowing procedures should be done with your mower set on a lower height 1.5 inches.
This allows sun, water, and nutrients to get to the base of your grass to help it get started. Raise your mower height every 1 week until you reach the MAXIMUM HEIGHT RECOMMENDED FOR YOUR GRASS TYPE. This height will help to protect the root system from the sun and retain moisture over the hotter days in summer.

Mulch clippings back into the lawn.

Clippings don’t contribute to thatch accumulation when the lawn is mowed regularly. However, if you’re recovering from disease or doing the final cut of the season, bag clippings instead.

HOW OFTEN you need to mow is determined by how fast your lawn grows.

You want to remove 1/3 of the leaf blade or less, any more than that and it will shock your grass. It’s also easier on your lawn to mow it in the evening, when the sun is not beating down on it.

Do not perform a lawn mowing when the grass is wet.

When the lawn is wet will be difficult to have a clean cut. The cut at the top edge of the grass has to be nice (not rip). A rip cut will make your lawn more susceptible to disease and may cause it to turn brown-yellow.

In the late FALL make your last cut shorter

When the lawn stop to growth, cut at 1.5 inches high to remove summer build up. Use the mower with Bag and compost the clippings for this last mowing procedure.

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Lawn Overseeding is an important step to do each year in SPRING or FALL for a lush, healthy, weed-free lawn.
As your lawn ages it becomes tired and grass reproduction rates slow down. Nobody likes the look of unhealthy areas in their lawn, but more than not looking good, these areas make it easier for weeds to take over. Spread grass seed over your entire lawn at the recommended rate once you finalized the THIRD STEP in your Lawn Care SPRING Tips. Be aware to cut the lawn shorter BEFORE overseeding and bag the clippings. New grass will pop up and fill in those unhealthy spots and contribute to your beautiful outside.

When to Overseed

If you are leaving in north regions than do it in FALL or SPRING when air temperature passing 16C – 20C in the day. Fall will be first choice because the soil it is still warm and the air gets cooler. Also will be fewer weeds for new grass to compete against and the diseases that attack seedlings are less active.
The second best choice it is in the SPRING.
Do not forget to wait for the outside temperature to reach over 16 – 20C in the day.

Select the right product (seeds)

Inspect and find out what type of grass you already have as part of the lawn. Buy the closest type of seeds as possible.
Lawns can be categorized in TWO big grass types:
• Warm season grasses
• Cool season grasses
To take the best possible care of you lawn it is VERY IMPORTANT to know your grass type you have.
If not sure take some pictures and grass samples and go to your closest gardening center. The people there will help you choose the right seeds for your lawn.
On my lawn I am using Scotts® Turf Builder® Grass Seed Heat and Drought Mix (3-1-0) OR Scotts® Turf Builder® Grass Seed High Traffic Mix (3-1-0).

Prepare the soil before

If you are using a special product for OVERSEEDING than you are done. ONLY be aware to cut the lawn shorter BEFORE overseeding and bag the clippings.
If you are using grass seed will be good to spread some enriched soil before. This will help the seeds to settle in. Do not use to much soil because can kill existing grass. Go less that 1/4 inch to be safe.

Spread the seed

Best if you will use a Broadcast / Rotary Spreader with edge guard for fast and accurate coverage.
I have a Scott Mini Broadcast Spreader with Edgeguard Technology.

Water the seeds

After you finish the seeds spreading, no matter which type of seeds you used, be sure to keep the soil moist all the time by lightly watering once or twice a day until the new grass will reach the height of the rest of your lawn.
If you have a water schedule imposed by local authorities try to comply with it also.
DO NOT MOWER YOUR LAWN FOR AT LEAST TWO WEEKS.

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Lawn watering is also one of the most important factors in having a healthy, beautiful lawn is proper watering.
Ensure your lawn get enough water every week.
I am using an automatic system to water one – two times of week between 1 – 2 hours in the morning (2 to 4 AM because of water regulations in my area).

The best time for lawn watering is early in the morning

Water early in the morning, when the sun is starting to rise. If you water in the afternoon while the sun is shining, you’ll leave the grass too wet, promoting fungus growth.

Buy a pulsating, revolving sprinkler hooked up to a garden hose.

If you not have built-in lawn sprinklers go and buy a pulsating, revolving sprinkler hooked up to a garden hose and a water timer at the hardware store and set it to automatically water your lawn in the morning.

Another solution is to water deeply in the weekends

Water deeply in the weekends AND do not water later that 10 AM. Be sure you reached the 1 to 1.5 inch of water per week.

Do not water in the evening

A wet lawn over night is the best condition for fungus to grow. This is ONE of the two worst things you can do to your lawn. The other one is mowing the grass to short.

Water your lawn deeply for once or maximum twice of week.

To much watering will shallow the root system. Watering at fix time and for short periods of time every day will also shallow the root system and switch your lawn to a water dependent grass that demands watering fix every day.
So WATER your lawn once or twice by week assuring that you reach the 1 to 1.5 inch of water.

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How to put in place your OWN Lawn Grub Control solution.

Change something like this:

… with something like this:

Beneficial nematodes are an all-natural, chemical-free alternative to insecticides for lawn grub control! They are a naturally occurring microscopic worm found around the globe in soils. Nematodes hunt and feed on soil dwelling insects by entering their body, injecting them with lethal bacteria, and feeding from their insides. The toxin usually kills the host insect within a day or two. To complete the life-cycle, they also lay their offspring in the dead grub (or other pest).

When buy beneficial nematodes be SURE they are stored in a COOL place 6 – 10 C (coolers).

CHECK FOR THE EXPIRATION DATE!

Do not use nematodes that are past their expiration date.
You can apply them using a watering can, sprayer and hose attachment or misting system. It’s a good idea to apply your nematodes during low light periods (morning or evening are best).
It is very important that you mix and apply your nematodes quickly so they don’t ‘expire’ in the can. You want to insure the nematodes have a chance to get into the soil before the water is evaporated. If possible, you should water your lawn or apply after a light rain for best penetration.

Using a hose end sprayer applicator will be applying nematodes very easy, just mix a concentration, fill your applicator and spray out nematodes until the jar is empty. Refill applicator until all your concentrated nematode solution has been applied. If you have an applicator which refills your jar as you spray mix a tea bag in with your nematode concentration. This will turn your concentration a tea color and when the concentration is diluted clear you know you’ve run out of nematodes.

When to apply:

For best results on lawn grub control procedure, apply a minimum of twice per year in the spring and later in the fall when soil temperature is above 10°C for faster, longer grub control.
Beneficial nematodes control lawn grubs, and over 250 pest larvae while being 100% safe for children, pets, birds, fish, plants, and earthworms.

How to Apply:

Water area to be treated
Mix nematodes with water and apply using hose end sprayer or pump sprayer
Nematodes can withstand up to 300 psi
Water well into soil
Keep soil wet for a minimum of 3 days

How much do I need?

10 million treats 185.8 sq. m (2,000 sq. ft.)
25 million treats 464.5 sq. m (5,000 sq. ft.)
50 million treats 929 sq. m (10,000 sq. ft.)
100 million treats 1,858.1 sq. m (20,000 sq. ft.)

Depend of how big the infestation is on your lawn you will need to apply the treatment for lawn grub control once OR two by year.

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Lawn Mower Blade Sharpening post will explain the step by step process for your Lawn Mower blade sharpening.

It is a good practice to inspect the cutting blade and the blade adapter once a week OR if you strike a foreign object. Replace OR rectify if necessary.

You can watch the video below OR scroll down to see the step by step instructions.

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First prepare the tools.

• Ratchet
• 5/8 in socket.
• A pair of thick fabric gloves or working leather gloves.
• Rag
• File OR Multi-Sharp Rotary Lawn Mower Blade Sharpener
• Wire wheel brush

Second … now we can start the Lawn Mower Blade Sharpening / Replacement job.

Be sure to have the engine cool at this point.

1) Disconnect the spark plug boot from the spark plug and place the boot away from spark head.

2) Turn mower on its side by keeping the air filter and the carburetor facing up.

3) MAKE A SIGN ON THE BOTTOM PART OF THE BLADE. (side facing down when mower in service).

NOTE: Protect your hands with a pair of thick fabric or leather gloves when handle the cutting blade.

4) Remove the Bolt and the Blade bell support which fixes the blade in place.

5) Remove the cutting blade and the Blade adapter from crankshaft by turning counter-clockwise.
Inspect the blade and the blade adapter for eventual cracks. If any present REPLACE the part with a new one.


6) Clean the blade using a manual metallic brush or a wire wheel brush.
DO NOT REMOVE THE SIGN YOU DID ON STEP 3

7) Test the blade balance. You can do that by using a screw fixed in a vertical support.
Make a mark to the heavier side of blade to avoid confusion.

8) Fix the blade by using a vise.

9) Start sharpening the blade.
At this point you will need to wear protection glasses.
You can sharpen the blade by hand using a file OR using Multi-Sharp Rotary Lawn Mower Blade Sharpener. (see img. 1)

10) Start to sharpen the blade on the lighter side.
Try to sharpen the blade by removing A MINIMUM QUANTITY OF MATERIAL.
Keep the original angle of grind.

11) Move to the (initial) heavier side and start the sharpening.
USUALLY you will have to remove more material from this side.
When done check the balance again.

12) If blade not balanced continue to sharpen ON THE HEAVIER side of the blade.

CHECK OFTEN FOR BALANCE.

NOTE: AN UNBALANCED BLADE will cause vibrations when rotates at high speeds. This can damage the mower OR can crack the blade and cause personal injury.

13) Add some oil on the crankshaft and fix (slide) the blade adapter in place.
14) Place the blade on the adapter. Keep the side of blade marked at point 3 facing DOWN.
Check for the blade to be seated and aligned with the blade adapter.
15) Add the blade bell support on the blade.
Align the notches from the blade bell support with he holes from blade.

16) Replace the Bolt with a new one (from same grade – tensile strength).

Tighten the bolt to MIN torque 450 in/lbs AND NO MORE THAN 600in/lb by turning clockwise.

It is a good practice to check from time to time on the blade bolt for the correct torque.

Move the Lawn Mower OUTSIDE OF CLOSED SPACES and start the engine.
Checked for a smooth run (no excessive vibrations).
Do a test by cutting a small section of the lawn. Check for a nice cut (not rip) at the top edge of the grass.

Seems like we are DONE here with Lawn Mower Blade Sharpening job.

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How to MTD – Yard Machines 21inch 3 in 1 Lawn Mower Spark Plug Replacement post will explain the steps by step process for your Lawn Mower spark plug replacement.

Replace the spark plug at the beginning of every season OR after 100 hours of operation, whichever comes first.

Do an inspection after 25 hours of operation.
If you are using LONG LIFE Spark Plugs do an inspection at the beginning of each season OR after 25 hours of operation, whichever comes first.
This machine cames equiped with an Engine 159cc OHV POWERMORE®.

You can watch the video below OR scroll down to see the step by step instructions.

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First select the new spark plug.

F5RTC (Torch) Plug Recommended.
Cross Reference:
• NGK – BPR5ES
• Champion – RN12YC
• E3 – E3.22 , E3.16
Personally I bought the E3.22 spark plug.

NOTE:

• USING AN INCORRECT SPARK PLUG can cause engine damage.
• DO NOT check for sparks with spark plug removed
• DO NOT crank engine with spark plug removed.

To ensure proper engine operation the spark plug must be free of deposits and properly gapped

Second we will have to prepare the tools needed.

• Dry rag
• Ratchet
• 13/16″ Spark Plug Socket
• Drive extension
• Feeler gauge with 0.030″ (0.762mm) blade.

Third … now we can start the SPARK PLUG REPLACEMENT job.

Be sure to have the engine cool at this point.
Disconnect the spark plug boot from the spark plug and place the boot away from spark head.

Using the Ratchet, Drive extension and 13/16 Spark Plug Socket remove the spark plug by turning counter-clockwise.

Inspect the spark plug seat and be sure the OLD washer is on the plug you just removed.
Measure the plug gap on the NEW SPARK PLUG. HAS TO BE 0.030″ (0.762mm). Correct as necessary by bending side electrode.

Add a drop of oil on the spark plug thread.
Insert the NEW SPARK PLUG to the socket.
Thread the spark plug in by hand to avoid cross-threading until stops turning.

Using the Ratchet, Drive extension and 13/16 Spark Plug Socket tighten the spark plug. Tighten 1/2 turn after the spark plug seats to compress the washer.
When reinstalling a used spark plug tighten 1/8 – 1/4 turn after the spark plug seats to compress the washer.

DO NOT OVER-TIGHT the spark plug because you CAN DAMAGE THE THREAD IN THE CYLINDER HEAD.
A LOOSE SPARK PLUG CAN OVERHEAT AND DAMAGE THE ENGINE.

Reconnect the spark plug boot to the spark plug. Be sure the boot snaps in place securely.

Move the Lawn Mower OUTSIDE OF CLOSED SPACES and start the engine. Run it for 1 minute. Check for an easy start and a smooth run.

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